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Monday, January 9, 2012

BAM! A review of Emeril's Delmonico, New Orleans, La

Happy New Year everyone!!  It's a bright new year full of endless possibilities for new restaurants, new foods and new experiences.  I'm hoping to be amused and amazed by some new chefs and also by some great new recipes in the coming year! 

I spent a week and a half in New Orleans over New Years and ate at my fair share of NOLA restaurants and not all were good.  I know that the word is NOLA is famous for their food, I agree that's the reputation, but in my opinion that reputation could just as easily be because the food is less than great.  We ate at dozens of restaurants and of those I had maybe 4 that I thought were worthy of recognition. My favorites were:  Oceana, Clover Grill, Coop's and JagerHaus.  My review today is of Emeril's Delmonico and sadly, I can't say it was one of the better restaurants we visited.

The building that houses Emeril's is a basic, nondescript storefront that leaves much to be desired as far as curb appeal goes.

When we walked in, it didn't get any better.  It was glaringly austere and cold, with very little on the white walls and only minimalist chandeliers to look at.  Emeril has such a big, warm personality (on TV anyway) that I was just surprised his restaurant would be so different than he is.  The bar was the nicest area in the place, with a funky '70's vibe to it, complete with big green velvet booths.  Kinda reminded me of Huggy Bear, but I liked the feel of it.  They had a really nice happy hour menu and some great drinks.  Even Martini's were half-price! Strawberry Blonde Martini on the left.



We were seated in the upstairs area, again, white walls and with crisp white tablecloths, near a window so we did have a bit of a view.  We asked the server, Kenneth, if there was a tasting menu we could order and after a few seconds of composing himself (they don't get that request often I guess), he said there was and did we want 3, 4 or 5 course and did we want wine.  We decided on the 5 course with wine pairings.  Here it is:

First course:  

Andouille Sausage Two Ways
 Spreadable Andouille on Mascarpone Crostini and Grilled Sliced Andouille, both served with a Champagne Mustard paired with Moet Reserve Cuvee
The Spreadable Andouille on Crostini was rich and spicy and perfect on the crunchy little toast and the mustard was delicious with it because it cut the fatty richness of the sausage.  The sliced Andouille was less successful for me, it was just okay, kind of like a grocery store smoked sausage.  Both versions of the sausage were house made and that was a nice touch.  This was very tasty, but really heavy as a first course. 

Second Course: 
Arugula Frisee Salad with Lump Crab and Citrus Sections dressed with Citrus    
Viniagrette paired with Morgan 2010 Napa Sauvignon Blanc
This was a small, lovely, little salad.  A little odd for a second course but the contrast between the spicy Andouille first course and this light salad was welcoming.  The crab on the salad consisted of two 1" slivers, that was disappointing, as was the fishiness of it.  I had to question was it fresh or frozen, or just on the verge of going bad. 

Third Course:
 King Seared Scallops with Garlic Escarole, Butternut Squash Puree and Balsamic
 Viniagrette paired with William Fevre 2009 Chablis
This was my favorite dish of the meal.  I found the scallops cooked beautifully - tender and flavorful - surrounded by a Garlic Escarole that was simply delicious.  I like my vegetables cooked a bit more than al dente and the greens were perfect in their garlicky goodness.  They were so good, I skipped over everything else on the plate and just ate the escarole.  So good!

Fourth Course:  

Steak Duo of 21 Day Dry Aged Ribeye, 14 Day Dry Aged New York Strip with Three Sauces:  Chimichurri, Sauce Bernaise and House Made Worcestershire. Served with Sherried Mushrooms, Sauteed Spinach and Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes paired with Justin 2009 Cab.
This was a beautiful way to serve the two cuts of meat.  The steaks came out on a big cutting board with all the sauces and sides on the board as well.  I wish I had just looked at the steaks and not tried to eat them.  If Delmonico's is supposed to be known for their steaks, they need to hide their heads in shame because these were really poor steaks.  The Ribeye was the better of the two, but Saltgrass is better than this was.  The Strip was tough and chewy and had zero flavor.  I was so disappointed!  The sauces were nice.  The chimmichurri was fresh and tasty, the bernaise was good but I detest bernaise on meat so I can't fuss about that sauce, BUT, the worcestershire was another story.  Like I said, it was house made and I wanted to beg for a bowl of to sip.  I can't begin to tell you how delicious that was.  It wasn't like Lea & Perrins at all, it was dark and sweet and sultry.  Seriously, that was the best sauce ever.  The spinach was great too, lemony and tender.  Perfect for lightening up the heavy meats.  The mashed potatoes don't merit a mention, they were just mashed potatoes, nothing more.  Betty Crocker maybe??

Fifth Course: 

Chocolate Caramel Torte Topped with Toffee Pieces and Coffee Ice Cream with Caramel Sauce paired with Delmonico Coffee with Liquors.
DESSERT!!  I LOVE dessert more than anything and this was a great dessert.  Let me describe it from the bottom up:  a round disk of glorious chocolate ganache, next was silky peanut butter ice cream, topped with a chocolate brownie and sprinkled with toffee.  On the side was a scoop of coffee ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce.  Oh, there are no words.  The chocolate ganache bottom was silky and sinful as it melted on your tongue and the peanut butter ice cream mixes in and then the brownie.....Wow.  Just wow.  Then they served their house specialty coffee.  I really think they should say they have a sh*#-pot load of liquors wth a little coffee.  This coffee had all of the following:  Kahlua, Frangelica, Nocello and Bailey's and topped with whipped cream and nutmeg.  That was some serious stuff and should be dispensed with a warning or a taxi ride back home.  It was delicious and everyone should have that if they go to Emeril's Delmonico.

All in all, it was a nice evening.  Food could have been better for the $165.00 per person they charged, minus the tip, but the escarole, dessert and coffee almost was worth the price.  The service was wonderful, absolutely no complaints as far as that goes.






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